Materials
If you ignore all of the preparation work (like the concrete base) and the non workshop related stuff, then the following is a list of the materials we have used:
For the workshop itself:
| Item | Quantity | Use |
| 2" x 3" Kiln Dried sawn timber | 135 m | General framing and rafters |
| 2" x4" Kiln Dried sawn timber | 37 m | Floor tray and ridge beam |
| 12 mm Ply WPB 8' x 4' | 4 off | Roof construction |
| 12 mm Ply CDX 8' x 4' | 12 off | Internal cladding |
| 19 mm Ply WPB 8' x 4' | 3 off | Floor |
| 50 mm Polystyrene sheet 8' x 4' | 11 off | Insulation between inner and outer skins |
| 19 mm x 125 mm redwood shiplap | 281 m | Cladding |
| Engineering Bricks | 22 off | Cut in half and used for supports between the base and the floor tray. |
| DPC Membrane | 1 roll | Used between wooden floor beams and brick supports to prevent water transfer. |
| Sharp sand / cement | 30 kg / 4 kg | Used to fix bricks in place |
| Roofing felt (underlay) | 20 m | Used for nail prep and first bonded layer |
| Roofing Felt (top coat) | 10 m | Final bonded layer |
| Felt adhesive | 12 L | Four and a half tins of black gloop |
| 13 mm Galvanised clout nails | 750 g | For fixing first layer of felt |
| Cuprinol external wood preserver | 15 L | And a respirator helps when applying it! |
| 4" x 12 Twinthread Quickscrews | 400 | All the framing is held together with these |
| 3" x 10 Twinthread Quickscrews | 300 | various framing / cladding fixtures / floor fixing |
| 2" x 10 Twinthread Quickscrews | 400 | interior cladding |
| 30mm 18g Brad nails | 2600 approx. | Shiplap and some interior cladding |
| 13mm Type A staples | 200 | Fixing DPC membrane to floor joists |
| 20 mm x 10 mm Architrave | 10 m | For making outer lip of door frame |
| Skirting board | 5 m | Inner frame for window |
| Carpet joining strip | 1 off | A nice brass finish to door threshold |
| Reclaimed front door | 1 off | complete with letterbox, hinges, and lock |
| Reclaimed Alu Double glazed window | 1 off | |
| Extractor fan 6" | 1 off | High flow rate with auto shutters |
| Extractor fan ducting kit | 1 off | With the external grill included |
| 5' Fluorescent strip light 65 W | 4 off | With diffusers |
| Switched double sockets | 12 off | |
| Double socket dry lining mounting boxes | 12 off | |
| 2 way consumer unit | 1 off | (Outbuildings already protected by a RCD installed at the supply end in the house - not ideal, but no need for one here) Update: later rewiring of the oubuilding circuits replaced the head end RCD with a time delayed type, and the main incomer here was changed for a 30mA trip device. Some non maintained emergency lighting was added to ensure that a trip does not plunge one into darkness!) |
| 6A MCB | 1 off | Lighting Circuit |
| 20A MCB | 1 off | Actually wired as a ring circuit to allow future upgrade to 32A if required |
| 2.5 mm 3 core SWA cable | 12 m | With hindsight, 4 mm 2 core SWA would have been better. |
| 5A junction boxes | 2 off | For lighting connections and switching circuits |
| Twin gang light switch | 1 off | For the lights - switch in two pairs |
| Fused outlet | 1 off | For the extractor fan |
| Fused Switched outlet | 1 off | For the heater |
| Single dry lining mounting boxes | 2 off | For the outlets |
| 16 mm Single surface mounting box | 1 off | For the light switch |
| Earth sleaving | 4 m | For all wiring connections in the back boxes etc. |
| 2.5 mm T & E Flat wiring cable | 25 m | Ring main |
| 1.00 mm T & E Flat wiring cable | 10 m | Lighting |
| 16 mm round PVC Conduit | 22 m | To keep the PVC clad wires out of contact with the polystyrene insulation! |
| Exterior mastic filler | 6 tubes | For all the gaps! |
| Silicone sealant | 2 tubes | Window sealing plus any other areas in need of wet service area sealing. |
| Interior decorators filler | 5 tubes | |
| Primer | 2 L | |
| Emulsion paint | 5 L | At least two coats |
Tools
If you fancy building one of these then you can think of it as a great excuse to use every power tool ever invented. Some however are more useful than others:
| Tool | Needed | Comments |
| Power mitre saw / chop saw | Essential | Either this or a radial arm saw are required for the thousands of cuts need to assemble the studwork and the cladding. |
| Cordless Drill / Driver | Essential | For fixing all the framing screws etc. 12V or larger recommended for the larger framing screws |
| Mains power Drill | Essential | For the larger drilling jobs and using flat wood bits to install cables etc. |
| 7" Hand held circular saw | Essential | For cutting all of the sheet materials to size. |
| Powered Plane | Useful | For finishing and "adjusting" fit of all the bits you did not measure just right. |
| Orbital Sander | Useful | General finishing and reduction of opportunities for splinters |
| Table saw | Luxury | Handy for the more extreme mitres on some of the roof sections. Could substitute a jigsaw here. |
| Mains Jigsaw | Essential | for all the tricky cutting work! and the stuff you just can't get into a mitre saw. |
| Cordless Jigsaw | Useful | When working on the roof! |
| Belt Sander | Useful | When finishing interior items like workbench etc. Could use orbital if you have more time to spare and enjoy vibration. |
| Portable workmate / workbench | Essential | In lieu of a workshop you need at least two of these! |
| Router | Luxury | For fitting door hinges, making cut-outs for dry lining boxes, and various finishing tasks. Can use a chisel / jigsaw in place of this. |
| Compressor & Air Nail gun | Essential | Unless you fancy the prospect of hammering in 2600 nails... Well to be fair you could use heavier gauge nails and say bring the total down to 1300! However some form of nailer will save weeks. |